Things to Do in Papua New Guinea

About Papua New Guinea

Papua New Guinea greets you with wet betel nut and diesel the moment your shoes hit the tarmac at Jacksons International. The humidity slaps, then clings. In Port Moresby's Koki Market, women from Hanuabada village hawk fire-engine-red crabs that click claws against plastic tubs. Boroko Foodworld sells imported Australian steak for 45 PGK ($12).

The Highlands Highway climbs past coffee drying on tin roofs in Goroka. Temperature drops to a crisp 18°C (64°F). Morning mist smells like eucalyptus and wood smoke. Mount Hagen's Waghi Valley spreads below like a green carpet. The road there is a three-hour bone-rattler. Every pothole could swallow a tire. Infrastructure runs on island time.

Flights that should take an hour stretch to four on a good day. The best reef at Milne Bay is a two-hour banana boat ride from the nearest airstrip. When the sun drops behind the volcanoes of Rabaul, the water turns the color of melted copper. You realize this is the last place on earth where you can still get lost and be better for it.

Travel Tips

Transportation: Domestic flights are your lifeline. Air Niugini and PNG Air connect the islands on routes like Port Moresby to Rabaul for 280 PGK ($75). Insider trick: PMV buses along the Highlands Highway cost 5 PGK ($1.30). You get the real scene. Bananas wedged between passengers. Gospel music blasts from a cracked speaker. Avoid PMVs after dark. They become mobile robbery targets. For island hopping, negotiate banana boat fares at Alotau wharf. Expect 150 PGK ($40) for the two-hour ride to Samarai.

Money: Cash is king. ATMs in Port Moresby and Lae dispense kina. They run dry on weekends. Bring USD bills in pristine condition. Locals prefer them. Better rates than banks. The black market near Boroko Cinemas changes money at 3.7 PGK to USD. Official rate is 3.4. Credit cards work at major hotels. Expect a 5% surcharge. Tipping isn't customary. Round up taxi fares from 8 PGK to 10 PGK. Earns genuine smiles.

Cultural Respect: In the Highlands, ask before photographing. Huli Wigmen charge 20 PGK ($5) per photo. That's fair. When visiting villages, bring a small gift. Rice, tinned fish, or betel nut works. Don't point with your finger. Use your chin. The wantok system means locals help their own first. Don't take it personally when your PMV leaves empty while you're still queuing. In coastal areas, wear modest clothing when walking through villages. The sea breeze doesn't excuse tank tops and shorts.

Food Safety: Street food is safe if it's smoking hot. Try kaukau roasted in roadside drums for 2 PGK ($0.50). Avoid lukewarm dishes. Anything washed in tap water is risky. The best bet is mumu. Pork and vegetables steamed underground for six hours. Served at village feasts. In markets, buy pineapples already cut. They're cleaner than whole fruit handled by dozens of shoppers. Beer is safer than water. SP Lager costs 10 PGK ($2.70). The brewery has better hygiene standards than most restaurants. For reef fish, eat it the day it's caught. PNG's warm waters turn seafood fast.

When to Visit

May through October is the sweet spot. Dry season drops hotel prices 30%. Brings 25°C (77°F) days in the lowlands. 18°C (64°F) in the Highlands. Port Moresby hits 32°C (90°F) in December. Brutal humidity. Sudden afternoon deluges flood streets within minutes. The Rabaul Mask Festival erupts in July. Dance performances locals prepare all year for.

Book accommodation early. Prices spike 50%. August sees the Goroka Show. 100 tribal groups perform. Guesthouse beds in Goroka jump from 150 PGK ($40) to 400 PGK ($110). December to March is cyclone season in Milne Bay. Liveaboard dive boats cancel trips when winds reach 35 knots. Budget travelers should target October.

Shoulder season brings fewer crowds. Operators desperate for bookings. Reef visibility still crystal-clear at 30 meters. Families avoid April's school holidays. Domestic flights fill with visiting relatives. Prices balloon. Solo travelers find March ideal. Locals relaxed after Christmas. Flights run half-empty. Village guesthouses charge 50 PGK ($13) including three meals.

The wettest month, January, sees 300mm of rain in Lae. Plan indoor activities. National Museum's WWII collection. Coffee tours in the Highlands. Covered drying areas keep beans perfect despite downpours.